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septembre 01, 2016


© Luka Lindic

Luka Lindic and Ales Cesen managed to climb Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m) along the route Child-Hargis-Macartney-Snape in Pakistan. The climb was done in alpine style and is only the fourth ascent along this highly technical and demanding route. To acclimatize, they climbed Broad Peak (8047 m) two weeks earlier, being the only climbers to do so this year.

You just came back from your expedition in Pakistan with a big success and you’re again preparing to leave for China.  What are your fresh memories from Pakistan?

There was lots of trail breaking in Pakistan and we needed to work quite hard to do what we did but I definitely came back with mostly good memories. We were a good team without any conflicts during the whole expedition. I was able to see how much I improved in the last few years, because I could compare my experience from the expedition to Makalu in 2011. This makes me very satisfied.

Lyo Expedition barrel

 © Luka Lindic

How was climbing Broad Peak - your first 8000m peak - for acclimatization?

I was training quite a lot before this expedition so I expected that climbing Broad Peak on the normal route shouldn’t be too hard. However it proved to be far from easy because of snow conditions between camp 3 and the col between main and middle summit. I also saw this as a final check before going to Gasherbrum 4.

Do you think it is enough time to recover between these two big expeditions?

Someone might think that it only makes you tired to climb an 8000m peak for acclimatization. I think that if this would have been an issue it would only mean we aren’t strong enough for the line we wanted to try on G4.

You’re about to leave for an expedition to China together with Ines Papert. Till now you climbed only with male partners. Do you expect any differences?

I already climbed before also with female climbers but not on expeditions. I don’t expect that it will be much different because Ines is a very good climber and already during the organization she impressed me how hard and effectively she was working to make the trip possible. Thank you! The biggest difference will be to finally share small tents and sleeping bag with a woman and not only men :-)  

How did you come to this idea to climb with Ines?

We were in touch for quite a while and we both love steep mixed climbing and the area where we are going offers exactly that.

Luka Lindic climbing

© Ales Cesen

How do you train for your expeditions?

Mostly by having long days in the mountains walking or climbing. I found it very easy to stay motivated during this kind of training, because I really like to be in the mountains. We all know that the motivation is the most important at the end. I do a bit of biking but nothing to serious.

What motivates you to go further even when it’s difficult and cold?

It’s hard to say. I don’t consider myself as being some crazy tough guy, but I definitely like to experience this kind of “fighting” for something from time to time.

Luka Lindic climbing

© Ales Cesen

Expedition is not only an act of climbing. There are many different activities around. It is a kind of a different planet you are going to live on, sometimes even for a month. Could you describe us a little bit how it is?

I am really happy that I have the chance to do this so often. If I would need to describe the feeling of being on an expedition it would be peace. The kind of peace it’s difficult to experience back home. It’s hard work many times for sure, but mostly you spend your energy to walk and climb, prepare food and liquid and place to spend the night. You forget about the rest. It’s also a lot about traveling and discovering different cultures.

© Luka Lindic

What do you think off during all those long waiting moments?

Many times I think of some crazy climbing ideas. I really like rock climbing too, so often on expeditions I think of where I will go to climb some warm rocks when I get home. I can’t deny that some-times you miss home or family but I never had big problems with that. I am usually able to switch to a different mindset when I go on expeditions.  

What would you say about food supply for an expedition? It is something that does not play a big role or is it something that you plan in details before your expedition?

The food definitely plays a big role. The longer the expedition the bigger role food plays. I take a lot of care when planning the expedition that there will be enough food and good variety of it. Usually I know already at home what I will eat on the climb, because I know what I like in situations like that. At the moment Bigos is the winner for me :) LYOFOOD has an excellent Bigos, they just need to make some extra mashed potatoes. I am definitely going more and more in the direction of normal food. With my homemade bars and elderberry juice, I have my perfect gourmet menu on high altitude.

© Luka Lindic

How do you see the future of mountaineering?

I will talk from a very personal perspective. I believe that no one has the right to judge what the “right future” of mountaineering is. Some people are motivated for speed ascents and some for more technical climbing. I think it’s great that we can do so many totally different things in our “sport”. I definitely see myself in steep technical faces of big mountains in the future.

Luka Lindic, Ales Cesen and snowman

© Ales Cesen

Thanks for the interview and have fun on your upcoming expedition!

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