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  /   LYO Ambassadors   /   Fabian Buhl

Fabian Buhl

Fabian Buhl signature

I am based in Oberstaufen in the German Alps, but the last years I am all around the globe in order to climb, whatever I am dreaming of. Initially, the small boulders and the most difficult lines were my main motivation, I trained and wanted to improve on my projects every little detail in order to finally stand on top of the boulder – this was my universe…

Fabian Buhl LYOFabian Buhl Climbing
Like that I could repeat some difficult boulders and sport routes, this microcosmos of movement was everything for me and I could have continued forever, but then I broke my ankle three times in a row and was thus forced to stop jumping down. During the search for new challenges, I found traditional climbing. It was something new again that fascinated me! Pretty soon, I realized that my head works very well, even high above the last placements and the better I worked and felt the route, the safer it became for me. Pretty soon, I was able to repeat some of the hardest traditional routes in the Alps. After the summer arrived, I felt the desire to try my new gained skills in a multi-pitch, because I simply wanted something new again. After the first few days, it became clear, that I love to work long days in the mountains in order to improve every little detail. Spending all this exhausting time in the mountains, was exactly what I was looking for. But there was still a lot to learn and to train, as it differs considerably from bouldering.

Nirwana in Lofer, Austria was formative for me at that time, because it costed me everything to go ground up through the route, afterwards I read in the topo, that it was first ascended Solo. I just could not imagine that, but was motivated to learn and to try my best in this special and little-played game of climbing. After some practice and methodical testing of the material, I returned to Lofer in order to try the grey pillar to the right of Nirwana by myself. Ground up and solo. The first ascent was an instructive time for me, but I was really infected with soloing, being absolutely responsible of my actions and finding a solution to every problem without relaying on a lot of experience from others, was really my main motivation. Thus, I perfected my solosystem to a maximum, finally, with my system, I can now also redpoint routes. My focus is shifting more and more into the bigger mountains, I am just super motivated to explore places and bigger walls, that I haven´t seen before and which are located in a remote area. Being out on your own under a big mountain, just shows you how small you are and the nature is so incredible beautiful!

meet Fabi

Biggest climbing achievements:

Bouldering:

Dreamtime fb 8c Ticino, Switzerland
Le Boa fb 8c Walensee, Switzerland

Sport:

Frontman Deluxe 9a, Allgäu, Germany

Trad:

Prinzip Hoffnug 8b/+ Bürs, Austria
Psychogram 8b+ Bürs, Austria

Multipitch:

Ganesha 8c 7 pitches solo first ascent and redpoint ascent, Loferer Alm, Austria
Wetterbockwand 8c 10 pitches, solo winter ascent and solo redpoint ascent Höher Göll, Austria
Tough Enough 8c 10 pitches solo redpoint, Madagascar

 

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