Marko Prezelj

Marko Prezelj, born in 1965, trained as a chemical engineer, works as a professional mountain guide, photographer and as a mentor for the young group of Slovenian alpinists. 

 "Uncertainty is the essence that feeds my curiosity which leads me through life as a son, father, husband, alpinist, mountain guide, photographer, friend and in most cases just simply a human. Simple life is my ultimate challenge."

Marko is not only an alpinist with impressive achievements, but a humble person as well. He likes situations when he has to be focused and spontaneous. For him, style in climbing is more important than the summit. 

"LYOFOOD tastes good even when my feeling doesn’t."

Recently Marko debuted as a cooking chef and helped develop the Apple Crumble. 

Marko's favourite dessert is the apple pie without pie! That was something that inspired us to make this tasty dessert. Sweet fried apples and crunchy traditional crumble bread. 

The Apple Crumble by Marko Prezelj is the second meal out of a unique menu of meals developed together with our brand ambassadors.

This project "Let's cook something up together" received the Outdoor Industry Award 2017. Learn more about this unique menu.

Marko's career highlights :

2017 First ascent on West Face of Arjuna (6250m), Kashmir, India "All or nothing", ED+ (M7+, Wi5+, A0), 1400 m

2015 First ascent of East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), Kashmir, India together with Manu Pellissier, Urban Novak, Hayden Kennedy

2010: New route on Bisotun Wall, Iran

2009: New routes on Baghirathi IV, III and II , Indian Himalaya

2008: New route on W face of Kangchungtse (7678 m)

2007:  First ascent of K7 West in Karakoram

2006: First ascent of Chomolhari, northwest pillar. Ascent of "Extreme Emotions", Cerro Standhardt and "The Long Run", Cerro Torre, Patagonia

2004: First ascent of North Face of North Twin, Canada

2002: First free ascent of Beyond Good and Evil (V M6, 600m), France; five hours.

2001: First ascent of "Light Traveler", Denali Alaski

2000:  Second ascent of the "Golden Pillar" of Spantik 

1999: First ascent of Gyachung Kang (7952m), north face. Siguang Ri Shar (6998m), south face, new route, second ascent of summit. Siguang Ri (7309m), north face/east ridge, new route. Peak 6700m (Zero Peak), east face/southeast ridge, first ascent. All alpine style with Andrej Stremfelj.

1998: Winter ascents in the French Alps: Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m), Direttissima (ED/ED+, 900m), first winter ascent. 

1998: New route on Porong Ri East Summit (7284m). Descends via northeast ridge, then climbs Yebokangal Ri West Summit (7332m), north ridge, first ascent, alpine style. 

1995: First ascent of Born under the Wondering Star (VI 5.10a A4-, 750m), North Tower of Paine, Chilean Patagonia, with Andrej Stremfelj.

1993: Wyoming Sheep Ranch (VI A4 5.8, 670m), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, fifth ascent, with Silvo Karo.

1992: First ascent of Menlungtse Main Summit (7181m). Marmolada, Fish Route (ED+, 850m), Dolomites, Italy, second winter ascent.    

1991: New route on Kangchenjunga South (8476m), Southwest Ridge, Himalaya

1988: New route on the north face of Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya

 

Marko received four Piolet d'Or awards, for opening a new route on south ridge of Kangchenjunga South alpine style with Andrej Stremfelj (1992), the first ascent of Chomolhari's northwest pillar with Boris Lorenčič (2007), for the first ascent of north face of Hagshu, with Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic (2014) and for the first ascent of East Face of Cerro Kishtwar with Manu Pellissier, Urban Novak, Hayden Kennedy (2016). 

 

 Meet Marko